Daily Speculations

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James Sogi

11/30/04
Wipeout!

Inspired by JT, here are some classic wipeouts surfing.

1. "Sucked Over the Falls." This is the worst. When trying to paddle back out over a breaking wave, the wave breaks before you can paddle over the top and the wave sucks you back over the falls backward, down a 15-foot hole where the wave is pitching out over itself, and tons of water crash on your head, as you fall backward, and the wave then picks you up again for a second go around getting thrown over the wave again, plus you get rolled underwater for 20-40 seconds which seems longer when it's happening and the breath is knocked out of you. It's like when you don't take your profit, and the market crashes not only taking away your nice big fat gain, but giving you a nice fat loss. That's the worst trade of all. Here's some good wipeout footage.

2. "Getting the ax." A particularly dangerous wipeout when paddling back out. The wave breaks in front of you and the lip, a 2-foot thick slab of eight tons of water moving at 30 miles an hour, comes straight down on your head and knocks you off the board, spins you underwater and smashes your face into the board. This is like the second you enter long, both Soros and the NY Fed sell 5000 contracts at the moment you enter and the price drops 8 points before you even get a fill on your stop. Here are more wipeouts.

3. "Pearl diving." Just as you take off on a 30-foot face paddling straight down the face, as you jump to your feet, at the most critical part of the wave, where it is straight up and down, the nose of the board nose goes under the water slowing the board as you fly head first twenty feet free falling in the air, hitting the water on your face, then thirty tons of water follows you and buries you. Then follows the obligatory 20-minute swim around the bay as the rip current drags you along the razor sharp reef as you gasp for breath. Kind of like the trade where you enter on a "pullback" except it's not a pullback, it's the beginning of the great recession as your net worth plummets.

4. "Lip Launched." When beginning to paddle into the wave just as its breaking, having delayed a bit too late,being inthe wrong position, and having failed to exert enough effort, rather than sliding down the face smoothly for a nice long ride, the pitching lip of the wave throws you out over the falls through the air and smashes you into the water, and then into the bottom like a pile driver. Lesson: enter trade early with great vigor."

When you catch a good one it makes it all worth while. The other thing is you don't get angry at the wave for beating the crap out of you. It's only water. (It's only money) Next time just stay out of the way of the danger zone and make the drop or paddle harder and get the timing down better and don't have to eat it as much. Surf safe. Trade safe. Stay healthy.

James Sogi is a philosopher, Juris Doctor, surfer, trader, investor, musician, black belt, sailor, semi-centenarian. He lives on the mountain in Kona, Hawaii, with his family