Nov

9

1) Hawaiian hellman Garrett McNamara has cheated death to ride what is being billed as the largest wave ever surfed. The big wave rider caught the huge 30m (90 feet) monster earlier this month off the coast of Nazaré in central Portugal.

2) From an interview with McNamara:

ESM: Do you have a training regimen to prepare you for big surf?

GM: It varies based on wherever I am because I'm on the road so much. I stretch and do breath-holding exercises every day, and then I do Bikram yoga and lift weights whenever possible.

ESM: Are you focused on nutrition too?

GM: Yeah, I eat about five small meals a day, mainly greens, and I've recently eliminated animal product from my consumption. I read this book called The PH Miracle, and it changed my life.

ESM: So what's up next for you? GM: I have a jam-packed schedule touring around with Wave Jet. We will be in LA Tuesday for a Discovery Channel shoot, then I head to Hawaii for a commercial shoot with WaveJet and Thule. Then it's off to Utah for the Outdoor Retail Show, then the US Open, then the SEA Paddle NYC around Manhattan. After that comes my favorite part, a week with Surfers Healing. Then I'm off to Florida for the Surf Expo, then Battle of the Paddle, then the International Boat Show, and finally, back to Hawaii for the Eddie and Pipe Masters.

ESM: Wow, that's quite a schedule. What inspires you to keep going?

GM: Surfing is my passion. It's what I love. It's what I live for. The ocean is my church and my playground all in one.


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