Jun

11

SurfThe best surfers know just where in the lineup the peak of the wave will arrive as the waves travel from over the edge of the horizon and sits in exactly the right spot. Just as the wave steepens up, the edge feathers, the master surfer turns, takes a few easy strokes and slides down and angles across the face of the pitching wave as the lip roars overhead. The entire wave tips over as the lip of the wave, a hissing mass of water traveling at 40 miles an hour carrying tons of weight and mass throws just over the surfer's head as he stands in the tube almost motionless. As the wave ends he casually kicks out and glides towards the lineup.

The waves have varying recurring patterns due to lunar and tidal effects of ocean and weather and seasonal patterns. The wave sizes vary from narrow ranges to larger ranges over the weeks. One rule of thumb is never take the first wave in a set. Waves come in sets of typically three to five waves, but occasionally more. After a long lull, the smart surfer moves out side and waits for a large set statistically more likely to come and avoids getting caught inside and worked, smashed, cut and bruised on the bottom with sharp razor coral and rocks. When entering the water over the reef, a good time to enter is just after a big set, as the likelihood of a lull is higher and allows one to paddle out without a working over.


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