Jun

8

BoardsGrajagan, Java, known as G-Land, is located on the edge of an untamed impenetrable jungle. It is arguably the best surf spot in the world. Access is by 12 hour grueling overland jungle/ferry trek or by speedboat across the straight from Bali. Komodo dragons, peccaries, monkeys, snakes, palms with 2 inch spikes and barbs eat along the edges of the jungle. There were cat tracks on the beach.

Top surfers come from Peru, Argentina, Japan, Brazil, Australia, US, Canada, Tahiti, to wage their luck against the most difficult, dangerous and best waves in the world. On one day one poor bloke broke three surfboards. Others suffered cuts, bruises in bounces off the reef when thrown through the air by the waves onto the sharp coral reef just feet below the surface.

Certain Keelyesque ex-pats spend up to 3-6 months in the area and have devoted their lives to surfing the elusive waves and exotic lifestyles. The waves scream down a two kilometer reef. The skill of the surfers is skewed to the highly skilled. There are no kooks out there, mostly the top surfers in the world. They call it entering the lion's den. There is little or no room for mistakes, but the rewards are enormous.

Waves are quantified by a number of variable which are assessed each day to determine which equipment to use and which area to surf. The numbers are posted on a board each morning.

Wave Height: 2.5 meters
Wave Period: 16 seconds (crest to crest)
Swell direction: 206 Tide depth: 1.7 meters Wind speed/direction: 5 knots NNE

These are the main variables. Similar quantification in a wave theory of stocks might also be helpful in assessing market conditions and could provide and improvement over other less accurate market wave models. Perhaps a similar posting each morning might be useful for markets of interest.


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